- Words by Toby Tannas Photography by Lia Crowe
It鈥檚 a busy lunch hour at . Every table is alive with food and banter, including the one I sit at with executive chef April Roy. She鈥檚 at home here, just as comfortable in a corner booth as in the kitchen.
鈥淚鈥檝e had many positions within Train Station鈥檚 four walls,鈥� explains April. 鈥淚 started as kitchen manager and then rotated into the executive chef role. Now I鈥檓 operating partner, running the business on both sides: culinary, as well as front of house.鈥�
It鈥檚 in the kitchen, though, where April鈥檚 passion for food is fuelled. She鈥檚 developed the Train Station Pub (TSP) menu beyond what you would expect from a neighbourhood pub. Her secret sauce is an approachable relationship with flavour, seasoned by years of intense culinary training.
鈥淲ith my background at wineries and high-end hotels, I bring that type of vibe and put it on a pub plate. It鈥檚 not about technique; it鈥檚 about flavour.鈥�
Trained at The Culinary Institute of Canada, April has worked in some of the Okanagan鈥檚 most revered kitchens, including Manteo, The Eldorado and the famous Terrafina at Hester Creek. Her career train jumped track nine years ago when it pulled into TSP. April says it was destiny.
鈥淚 used to spend a lot of time in Kelowna. I loved the look of the Train Station before it was a pub. I actually said, 鈥榦ne day, I鈥檓 going to work there.鈥� I kid you not; I鈥檝e said that since day one. We would drive past this building on the way to Prospera to watch my brother play hockey 20 years ago!鈥�
(Fun fact: April鈥檚 brother, Nolan Yonkman, played with the Kelowna Rockets in the late 鈥�90s.)
Like the chef herself, TSP is friendly and comfortable and the food is full of substance.
鈥淲e鈥檙e still producing hotel-grade, beautiful dishes here. It鈥檚 elevated pub food, so it doesn鈥檛 always have to feel like a 鈥榥ight out.鈥� It鈥檚 鈥榟ang out鈥� food with that social aspect as well.鈥�
TSP definitely has that 鈥渨here everybody knows your name鈥� vibe. Burgers, as you鈥檇 expect, are at the core of the menu, but what April has chosen to call them is unexpected.
鈥淲e have the Bun-Jovi Burger and the Yellowstone. They are quirky names that are fun to come up with.鈥�
April鈥檚 Dr. Seuss-ical approach to writing the menu is another creative outlet designed to amuse her and give diners a chuckle. Strip it down, though, and success is ultimately determined by what the food tastes like. From the All Aboard Shareables to First Class Bowls and Plates to End of the Line Desserts, April has carefully crafted each dish to reflect her love of flavour with a nod to her gourmet roots.
鈥淢y thought process comes from the place of 鈥榳hat would I eat, what do I crave?鈥� Then I combine that with what鈥檚 new and upcoming鈥攕ince there are definitely fads in food.鈥�
A current menu favourite is the Prawn Alfredo.
鈥淚t鈥檚 beautiful prawns in an Alfredo sauce with fresh peas, saut茅ed ham, lots of garlic and lemon. It鈥檚 really fresh for summer.鈥�
Another star entree that鈥檚 nestled among the pub staples is the Blackened Salmon.
鈥淚t鈥檚 rubbed with our house-made Cajun spice, grilled to order with fresh Mediterranean vegetables, marinated cucumber, fresh corn salsa and stone fruit chutney. It鈥檚 a fusion of different countries. You get a full flavour profile with the comfort of sitting in a pub.鈥�
TSP is a hotspot these days with reservations recommended at peak times. April鈥檚 menu has no doubt upped the popularity of the eatery, but the neighbourhood has also grown up around TSP. A new crop of breweries and pubs have made Kelowna鈥檚 north end a foodie destination.
鈥淭hat has helped tremendously as far as people being aware of who we are now. Businesses help businesses, so we鈥檙e in that little community. If our neighbours are busy, they send people here and vice versa. We help each other out.鈥�
TSP has a sister restaurant across town in the Landmark District. Mid-Town Station is also under April鈥檚 charge. It has its own distinct vibe that requires a different approach to the menu.
鈥淲e have more of a business crowd in the Landmark District. They鈥檙e looking for that great, quick, healthy lunch. It鈥檚 more farm-to-fork at Mid-Town. We have so many amazing local farmers and producers. I always work to incorporate fresh, seasonal flavours at both restaurants.鈥�
Managing two kitchens keeps April on her toes, but with a strong core staff she is able to spend most of her time exploring her culinary creativity.
鈥淲e change the menu twice a year. I鈥檓 always thinking about flavours. If I鈥檓 relaxing, I鈥檒l often have an epiphany moment and I鈥檒l write it down. It just happens like that.鈥�
And just like that, my time with this bubbly chef is almost up. I鈥檝e saved my favourite question for last: 鈥淲hat鈥檚 in your fridge at home?鈥�
April doesn鈥檛 hesitate.
鈥淚f you open my fridge, you鈥檒l find cheese. There鈥檚 some sort of cheese in there always, tons of hot sauces and mustard.鈥�
Cheese and condiments! Sounds like the beginning of the next great April Roy culinary creation.
Story courtesy of , a Black Press Media publication
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